Swagelok fittings

The pressure rating of a Swagelok tube fitting depends on the lowest rated component in the system in which it is installed. Sometimes the lowest pressure rated component is a pipe thread, a pressure gauge, or a valve. Other times it will be the pressure rating of the tubing itself, and that will vary depending on the tubing's size, wall thickness and material of construction.

To learn more, download the literature provided at the top of this Web page.

Swagelok tube fittings come completely assembled, finger-tight, and ready for immediate use. 

1. Fully insert the tube into the fitting and against the shoulder, and rotate the nut to make sure it is finger tight.
2. Mark the nut at the 6 o'clock position.
3. While holding the fitting body steady, tighten the nut one and one-quarter turns to the 9 o'clock position, and the job is done.

You will need two open-end wrenches (or one open-end wrench and a vise), a Swagelok gap inspection gauge, a tube-cutter or hacksaw, a file (Swagelok deburring tool), and a marker.

NOTE: Above on this web page is a video demonstrating the correct way to install Swagelok fittings from 1/4 inch to 1 inch.

Tapered pipe threads are one of the most common end connections found in industry. They are relatively simple to make up, however they always need a sealant since there are designed-in gaps between the male and female threads.

PTFE tape fills in the gaps between crests and roots to prevent system fluids from penetrating connections, providing reliable sealing in applications up to 450°F (or 232°C). To complete this task, you will need an open-end wrench, a dry soft-bristled brush, and a roll of PTFE tape (a vise is optional).

NOTE: Above on this web page is a video on preparation, tape size, wrapping procedures, and subsequent tightening. 

Do not mix or interchange product components with those of other manufacturers. Doing so voids the Swagelok warranty.

Generally it's best to use like materials. There are exceptions.

Example: if you have stainless steel tubing, use stainless steel ferrules and fittings. On plastic tubing, use plastic ferrules and fittings. The reason for matching materials is simple: You want the ferrules to be stronger than the tubing so that the ferrules can swage onto the tubing and lock into place. 

If the ferrules are made of softer material than the tubing, you won't get that swaging action. Brass, for instance, is softer than stainless steel. So brass ferrules won't give you the full swaging action on stainless steel tubing.

NOTE: Please see the video above on this page about selecting proper materials when building a fluid system.

One advantage of the two-ferrule fitting design is the ability to reuse the body without leaks. Most of the cost of replacement is in the fittings, not the nuts and ferrules. Sometimes you don't even have to replace the ferrules.

Before disassembly, mark a line along the nut and body flat and use these marks to ensure that the fitting is reinstalled properly.

NOTE: Above on this web page is a video demonstration of the procedure.

If you have made changes in the system design, by moving a fitting to a new location or changing the tubing, you can't re-use the nuts and ferrules, but you can still re-use the fitting bodies. 

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